Discussion in 'Discussion' started by Jem, Sep 16, 2020.
Why does the AA6 only have a few Frequencies on the GEQ? Are these the key ones for guitar?
These are the key frequencies for guitar.
If you look at graphic EQ pedals you'll find similar frequency selections.
Thanks Jace! i noticed that transitioning from Headphones to speakers I had to boost 640 and the others above it to level 5 to get the muffled sound out of it and brighten it up at the volume I was playing. Sounded really good after I did that. Very cool feature. There is a lot of modded amp tones in there alone I figured out while dialing it in.
I guess if I want to boost the 800 frequency I need to set a PEQ?
You'll always have to make adjustments when you change your monitoring source.
Personally I have presets that I dial in for headphone use. I put "HP" in the name so I know it's dialed for headphones.
I do the same thing for presets dialed for a guitar power amp and speaker cabinet instead of an FRFR, etc.
Yes, if you want to adjust specific frequencies that are not offered in the Graphic EQ block, you would have
to use one other the other EQ blocks. Set it to PEAKING to use the EQ as a Parametric EQ. Set the Q (Bandwidth)
of the EQ to narrow if you want it to react more like a graphic EQ. Setting the Q wider will affect adjacent frequencies as well.
All of that said, don't forget that the tone control knobs for each amp model are also powerful EQ tools.
Here's some other Tone Tips for you:
EQ BLOCK-In my mind this is the most important tone parameter. This EQ is called PRE TONE on the AmpliFirebox and PRE on the AF3, AF6 and AF12. The parameter is called ROLLOFF on the AmpliFirebox and LOWCUT on the AF3, AF6 and AF12. This is a HPF (High Pass Filter) that rolls off low frequencies BEFORE the amp model. This helps every amp model to sound more defined. A good starting point for this value is 250Hz. This means ALL frequencies below 250Hz will be rolled off. If you feel this takes away too much of your low mids can lower this value. You probably shouldn’t set this any lower than 125Hz. On the AmpliFirebox the EQ block needs to be ON and the PRETONE needs to be ON. On the AF3, AF6 and AF12 the PRE block needs to be active.
AMP BLOCK-DAMPING-Every amp model reacts differently to this parameter. Try hard left, Center and hard right. You'll quickly get a feel for what sounds best with that amps model. With higher DAMPING levels you'll need to boost the LEVEL parameter. With lower DAMPING levels you'll need to lower the LEVEL parameter. (Note that the Rumble, Rumble Brite and Top Boost amp models are not affected by this parameter.)
CAB BLOCK-Obviously the IR you load will make a HUGE impact on the tone. But the ROLLOFF parameter is very important. The best results come with settings between 7kHz and 10kHz. This is the best way to dial out the high frequency fizz that some people complain about. The PEAKING parameter is also very important. For darker sounds set to.70. For brighter sounds set it to 1.00. For any amp model that sounds too bright to you, set this all the way down to .50.
KNOBS-MASTER-Different amp models react differently. Some I set far right, but never less than a center setting. This drives the power section of the amp model. On a clean amp, this can be the difference between crystal clean and breaking up.
KNOBS-GAIN-Even for clean amps I set this at least to 3 or 4. You need enough input signal to get a strong tone, but too high and it breaks up. For high gain tones I find it sounds fuller and heavier at about 2 O'Clock as opposed to cranking it up all the way. With some amps I bring the gain down a bit and drive it with the SCREAMER or OVERDRIVE boost. The Recto is an example of an amp that works better this way.
LEVEL MATCHING-Anytime you boost anything (EQ frequency, Echo Level, Boost Post Level) you're boosting the output level of the preset which can clip the output and cause distortion. Try to keep most effect block levels at 0dB or less. In the AMP BLOCK use the LEVEL parameter to try and match your different preset levels. If you find that you're clipping the outputs, lower AMP BLOCK LEVEL as much as you need to until the CLIP warning goes away. Lower your other presets AMP BLOCK LEVELS as well to match levels from preset to preset.
Very cool Jace... I tried the EQ on the amp block and you are right they do make a big difference. I usually go to my standard settings and then try to dial it in with other things but just tried the EQ a little more today it makes a big difference.
It seems most of the presets have the damping on 10 but to me turning it to 0 brightens it up, which I like. I didn't notice any difference other than that. I was looking in the manual and it mentioned SAG but I don't see it on mine.
I also put a Peaking PEQ on .8 Frequency at .5 Q and it makes the amp sound like a Jose Mod (800). Really cool.. I could dial in some custom amps when I figure this stuff out more.
Really wish there were a few global settings on the AA to tweak the eq and reverb between monitors and headphones.
Yes, duplicating presets covers this but it's a royal pain. More than a global setting that overrides a value, often you want to globally add (or subtract) a few db relative to the preset value.
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